Origins of the Danish Folk Costume
The Beginning
In the 1500s, the first series of illustrations depicting European regional costumes (confusingly, these were then called "national" costumes) was published, focusing on German territories.
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German peasant costume 1500s
In Denmark, regional costumes evolved more quickly in times of plenty, such as the prosperous 1500s, and more slowly in leaner times such as 1600-1750.
Villeinage System Abolished
Until the period from the 1760s-1788 when it was phased out, Danish peasants were subject to a system called "villeinage." As "villeins" they were tied to the lands of a particular lord and were not free to leave him, but could move within his lands. In that respect, they were like the serfs in Russia, but had more rights, as villeins could own land, bring legal claims and were not tied to a particular plot of land.
Villeins working the land in Medieval era
​​​​​​​​​Prosperity and Adoption of Fashion
The abolishment of villeinage led to an era of prosperity for Danish peasant farmers, causing the fashions of the Rococo Period (1730-1770) to be incorporated into peasant clothing (see the Mols apron as an example). During the period 1805-1818, high corn prices led to further peasant farmer affluence, causing the fashions of the Empire Period (1804-1820) to be adopted. A corn price crash from 1818-1827 ensured that the latest fashions were barely incorporated into the garb of the peasantry during that time. When the good times returned in the 1830s, dresses of silk and printed cotton became more common. By the 1840s, the export of farm produce became more prevalent, further lining the pockets of farmers. Thus, home-made fabrics and garments were replaced by factory-produced clothing bought in the market towns. Ellen Andersen argues in her 1960 book "Danske Bønders Klædedragt" that because farming was not the primary means of earning a living on the islands of Fanø, Læsø and Amager, those residents continued using their regional folk costumes the longest.
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Clothing Inventories Compiled at Death
Much of what we know comes from written inventories of personal items (e.g., clothing, furniture) compiled at death for tax and inheritance purposes.
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Origins of Women's Clothing Items
Nattrøje: The nattrøje (a knitted sweater, often red and worn under the bodice) first appeared in the late 1600s and became common by the 1730s.
Bodice: By the mid-1700s, the bodice had been adopted for everyday wear.
Sleeved Jacket: The earliest illustration of a sleeved jacket in Denmark comes from 1630. It was an upper-class fashion until around 1750 when it started being worn by the peasants. The jacket's bottom edge often had a 4-inch "skirt" attached.
Skirts: As a general rule of thumb, red skirts were worn by unmarried girls, green by married women, and blue for festive occasions.
​Neck Scarf: By the 1730s, this garment appeared. It was typically a square piece of linen folded into a triangle and placed around the neck with the ends tucked into the front of the bodice or jacket.
​Underpants: These were practically unknown among the peasants until the 1870s.
Harvest Clothing: The sleeved jacket and nattrøje were never worn for harvest work. Instead, one wore white 3/4-length sleeves. In most regions, a white apron was obligatory.
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Origins of Men's Clothing Items
Headgear: Until the early 1700s, men wore a tall conical hat. In the 1700s, a low, broad-brimmed black felt hat was worn. By the end of the 1700s, knitted nightcaps (red, blue or multi-colored) were worn. In the early 1800s, peasant men adopted the top hat that had been fashionable among the upper classes since 1795.​​​​
Conical Hat 1580-1630
from "Danske Bønders Klædedragt" by Ellen Andersen, 1960
Felt Hat 1600s
from "Danske Bønders Klædedragt" by Ellen Andersen, 1960
Nightcap (entered everyday use at end of 1700s)
The red nightcap shown above was common throughout Denmark
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"Nikolor's nightcap" was worn mainly in South Funen and on Lyø Island
Image Credit: Museum of Danish America
Top Hat (worn early 1800s onward) shown worn over a Medieval hood (worn 500AD to late 1800s)
from "Danske Bønders Klædedragt" by Ellen Andersen, 1960
Medieval hood (worn 500AD to late 1800s)
Image Credit: Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum, Norway
Vest: The vest, also called a jerkin, has been worn by the Danish upper classes since at least the late 1500s. It became peasant attire from the early 1700s onward.
Hair: In 1624, King Louis XIII of France started wearing a wig to cover his premature balding. This started the trend of fashionable men wearing wigs, which lasted until around 1800. During the wig era, peasants wore their hair long but never wore wigs. Around 1800, wigs fell out of fashion and peasant men began to wear their hair short.
Danish Haute Couture
Regarding European haute couture (high fashion), in the 1700s it was the royal courts and nobility, particularly in France, that dominated. Following the French Revolution (1789-1794), it was the wealthy bourgeoisie, particularly in England, that dictated fashion throughout Europe, including Denmark.
In 1785, French journal Cabinet des Modes launched, becoming the world's first fashion magazine. Although Denmark would have only one fashion journal of its own before 1840, French and English fashion journals circulated in the homes of Denmark's elite.​